yep! i will get one when there is more light...

Hit a huge snag today, the 1.5 motor is siezed. Between myself and RushHour we couldn't get the damn thing to budge. Kinda fitting that the last little piece of the old motor dies on me. Oh well...

So after a quick read over lunchies thread again, i done a ring around the wreckers and found a 1.6l motor. I found one with low kays (around 13,000) from an 05 manual wreck. I decided to go down this route since most of the parts i currently have will fit, i have invested alot into the little 1.5, and i am crossing my fingers i can transfer that to the 1.6 easily. We shall see.

So tomorrow is going to be a big day! Thanks to Kev, Ryan and Ian for their help and suggestions too!

how long has the head been off for??

i would say that if the engine was out of the car, pull the sump off and empty a heap of wd40 down the back of the pistons and also on top
i reckon surface rust has stopped it dead if the head has been off for a while

You COULD also try heating the pistons with an oxy/blowtorch and see if a bit of thermal expansion might pop it for you?

And yeah, 1.6's aren't expensive and ridiculously low km units are everywhere! Not sure max boost/power levels available but the bigger stroke should mean quicker spool on the potato and better off boost drivability. On my car was 100% interchangeable but remember that if you use the 1.5 clutch you have and the 200mm flywheel from the 1.5, swap the crank angle sensor!(they fit each other 100% though)

If you need a hand transporting I'll help.....

engine swap day 1.

Basic summary: engine crane arrived, engine didn't. Damn

But had a fairly big day anyhow....

I started the day by getting under the transmission and undoing the drain plug. While the fluid was draining i moved over to the other side and removed the 2 bottom bolts on the air con compressor. Then i removed the bonnet to give myself a little more room to work, suspended the air con compressor from the windscreen wiper motor, then removed the top 2 bolts. After this i started on the starter motor, it was being stubborn! I did get it out after a few hours (i also did some other little fiddly things while trying to relieve frustration!). I also removed the little cover on the bottom of the bell houring. There is 4 bolts holding the old engine in at the moment. They are the gearbox bolts. I have chosen to leave the gearbox in there (even though i drianed the fluid the morning) since its supported by 3 engine mounts so it wont go anywhere. This will allow me a much more pain free swap i think.

Anyhow, i will see how it pans out tomorrow

ur a crazy man hope all is goin well. wen did u want ur unjectors back cos there still sitting at my shed. also i have a fuel rail to suit accent/excel drilled for 11mm o-ring injectors if ur interested let me know.
fez

I think you forgot something.
PICS!

day 2 - PICS DAY!

With only a few bolts holding the old engine in, i got up early and got into getting it out!


It didn't take me long to have the old motor strapped and chained to the crane:


With the lase few bolts out, the clutch slave removed and the 10mm bolt out of the plate between the gearbox and engine, it was free!



The old excedy pressure plate looking a bit dirty


The gearbox sitting nicely in the engine bay still:


About then i stopped for some breakfast/lunch. After i finished eating, the new engine arrived!



They left both the manifolds on, and the injectors/fuel rail on, which was more than i expected


So i then started the take apart the new motor! I tried taking the crank pulley off, and snapped the timing belt trying, so i then decided to attack the head gasket first. I started stripping down the motor, removing the coil packs and spark plug leads, then taking off the exhaust and intake manifolds, rocker cover and then the exhaust cam. This allowed me at the head bolts:


Bits of engines scattered everywhere throughout the garage:


Head off:


All the different head gaskets i have collected. From top left: oem 1.6l dohc, aftermarket 1.5dohc, ebay 1.5 dohc (centre), sharkracing 1.5/1.6 dohc turbo spacer, my old 1.5 turbo spacer:


I then installed the shark racing spacer and re-assembled the 1.6 motor. At the end of the day i was left with this:


So a few things i have noticed. The 1.6 head seems to have ball bearings sealing the oil galleries where the 1.5 had hex head plugs, it means i might have to use a sandwich plate for the oil feed for the turbo. Either that or get one removed, and then tapped. The excel plenum looks like it will fit a 1.6l, i still need something done about the idle air control valve if i am going to put it on now. I am tempted to stick with the 1.6 plenum for now since its not hard to change them over later.

On the todo list for tomorrow:
Crank bolt removal
water pump replacement
timing belt install
clutch/fly change and alignment
engine install!

"The 1.6 head seems to have ball bearings sealing the oil galleries where the 1.5 had hex head plugs"

Can you explain that one a bit more?
Did you happen to get a photo of this?

no, but i can easily get some tomorrow

Bah! That means the 'bung' you spoke of is in fact not on my 1.6 Oh well can still simply tee off the oil press switch right next to the exhaust manifold.

And DON"T FORGET to change the crank angle sensor to the 1.5 one!

That de-comp gasket looks nice, what will the resulting compression/boost limit be?

Day 3 of swap!

Overnight, my kind neighbor had removed the crank bolt using his rattle gun, so i was greeted with this in the morning:


So i set about removing the covers and removed the old timing belt:


Then the idler, tensioner and water pump:


I then replaced all of those on the new motor with the ones i had purchased for the 1.5. So then it came time to change the clutch and flywheel over. After some cursing about how easy it was to turn over the engine (making it difficult for us to get the clutch/flywheel off), 99XL (my helper for the day, thanks mate) put my old 1.5 flywheel and clutch on since they seemed in good condition.


He then remembered that he had a brand new excedy heavy duty clutch he had never installed in his excel, so we went and grabbed it and used it instead. For interests sake, i took a photo of the 1.6 clutch on the spline of the gearbox:


Once the clutch was on, it was time to get the engine back in. It was about as difficult as i expected. The crank pulled needed to be removed, and the air con idle pulley. It was very tight maneuvering the pressure plate into the bellhousing, and then getting it onto the spline. After about 3 times lifting it in and out, we finally managed to get it roughly in position, but we were having trouble getting the clutch onto the spline of the gearbox. Using the jack, playing with the length of the chains and turning the wheels of the car to help line it up, we finally managed to get it in. From there we just went about re-installing everything. Driver side engine mount, crank pulley, then air con compressor, starter motor, water pump pulley, oil filter, alternator, power steering pump, coil packs, exhaust manifold.


Hahaha, just kidding, we thought it would be funny to do a mock install of the turbo LOL. Its a very tight fit with that manifold, so much so that i wouldn't even get a silicone coupler on the inlet as it would foul on the engine mount:


Plenty of room there when there is no alternator!


But really, it looked like this when we finished the day (actually, with the bonnet on too):


For lunchie:
Where the bung was removed from the 1.5 head, its right below where the coil packs sit. Actualy, the black bolt on the left is for the coil pack bracket, the black bolt on the right is for your thermostat housing:


To do in the coming week:
Buy/install power steering and alternator belts
Buy/install new bottom radiator hose and install radiator
Install new engine loom
Install plenum (probably going to go with the LC2 one till i can work out something for idle air controller on the excel plenum)
Fill all fluids (engine, coolant, tranny)
Buy/install new battery and positive terminal

I think that about covers it as far as whats left to do to get it running. Again a huge thanks to 99XL for all his help today!

I have been working on the car when i could over the past 2 weeks, but haven't been making too much progress (especially with the big things like the loom). But with another rainy day and nothing to do inside (apart from play games) i decided to work on the car.

I started the day changing the belts on my house mates excel, which was a piece of cake, i moved onto the accent. The first thing i did was rotate my turbo and then trial fit a few different manifolds, finally putting the stock headers back on.

I then talked my other house mate into contorting himself behind the dash to help me pull out the engine loom. I wasn't long before we managed to get it out, and then it was much easier getting the new one in. I then went about connecting everything back up in the engine bay, and installing the plenum, then injectors, then intake, then radiator.

After a breakfast/lunch break, i went about connecting up the loom under the dash, after a little bit of swearing and blood, it was connected again. I re-installed the cluster, and then connected up a battery. After priming the fuel and oil for a while, i went to kick it over for the first time, and the battery was flat

So i grabbed the spare battery i had, connected it up, and it ran! No ECU codes or anything, it was fine. Idled well too. First start video will come on monday! Needless to say, i am very happy. I hope to take it on a drive tomorrow to make sure its all good

Nice Tim. Can't wait to see the Accent back on the road!

Good work mate. Glad to see it back up and running.

Got it all sorted today!

Re-wired the battery terminals, wired in the thermo fan, put the battery in, done the lower radiator hose, filled it with coolant and ran it. I thought it was all over for a second, because heaps of smoke was coming from just under the windscreen Couldn't have been anything too important because everything still seems to work

I even went on a trouble free 200km drive. Seems to drive fine even with the decompression gasket and the stock 1.5 ECU running it

I take it there was no turbo on while the driving took place?

SEE! I told everyone the 1.6 was no probs, Interesting about it driving well even de-comped

Glad to see it was all hassle free like mine, but yours fired up a little smoother first time, maybe thanks to the de-comp gasket?

It could possibly be that. I am putting the idle down to that (as a few people have said, it sound like its either got a lumpy cam or a rotary in it LOL)

Yoda: no turbo on yet, but progress is being made on that front....

The idle should sort itself out after half a dozen driving cycles and redline it a couple of times too. The idle will go up and down for a bit but eventually it figures it out and drives normally. I even forget that it's a different engine sometimes

Maybe dyno it?
See what the decomp plate has done.

Also lunchie you need to dyno yours as well.

Yeah will dyno mine before turbo goes on for a before/after deal.

Having issues with clutch again, stoopid stage 1 seems to be slipping today and clutch pedal has lost some travel. Slave cylinder is new so will have to take to a mechanic for an opinion. Don't have mechs 'in the family' anymore as Kel and I have separated.

first start video is HERE!

I am slowly making progress, just purchased new pads for all my disc brakes (ie. The front hyundais and the rear proton/mitsu), some fresh dot4 fluid and i will need to either get the current discs i have machined, or purchase new ones....

Done alot of tidying up the interior, but i haven't had time to look at the stereo or any of the earth problems, or install my short shifter or adjust the clutch

hahah next comes boost hahaha classic line

spotted yesturday drivin near indro
fez

Lucky man! I only drove through indro to pick up supplies on the way to the farm!

I tried the rear disc conversion yesterday with some mixed results. Here is a step by step with photo, i will move it to the DIY section when i have finished it. I am only upto step 9 at the moment, however i stopped there so i could get my proton discs machined today and i also decided to get new banjo's and washers since the proton ones i had looked pretty ordinary:

What Tools you will need:
Jack, Chocks and Stands
12, 14, 17, 32mm sockets/spanners
11mm flare or normal spanner
Flat and Phillips screwdrivers
Brake bleeding kit or similar

What parts you will need:
Rear caliper bracket from proton (xli, gli, wira, m21, etc.)
Rear calipers from proton
Re-surfaced rear discs from proton (or new discs)
New brake pads
Pair of Proton brake lines
Pair of Proton hand break cables (preferably from a sedan shape model as they are slightly longer)

Step 1: Jack up the car! I put chocks on the front and rear of the front wheels so the car wouldn't move:


Step 2: Remove the wheel(s).


Step 3: The whole outside of the drum should come off, if they don't come easily, make sure you have the hand break off!


Step 4: The next thing in the road is the hub, it will need to be removed. You will need a flat screwdriver to remove the cover and a 32mm socket to remove the hub bolt. The edge of the bolt is bent into a recess stopping it from moving, i was able to bend it back out simply by turning the bolt with a 300mm breaker bar:



Step 5: Now remove the shoes etc. You will need a 12mm socket for the 4 bracket bolts (already removed in the photo), an 11mm normal or flare spanner for the brake lines, and a flat screwdriver to help get the handbreak cable un-clipped from the shoes (its the 2nd bottom spring in the photo) :


Which should leave you with this:



Step 6: I did alot of trial fitting of the brakes in different directions, and with the different models parts. The best way i found to mount them was with the caliper on the front side of the disc up high, since it then cleared the swaybar, wishbones etc. If like me you purchased brakes off a car with ABS, you will need to remove the sensor mount, and grind down one of the tabs or it will hit on the rear wishbone:


Step 7: Remove the Hyundai brake lines and fit the proton ones

Step 8: Mount the proton caliper bracket and stone cover:


Step 9: Re-install Hyundai rear hub

Step 10: Install the proton rear discs, use one of your wheel nuts to hold it in place while you work

Step 11: Install Proton Calipers. Mine needed a washer to space it out appropriately.

Step 12: Connect brake lines to calipers

Step 13: Bleed brake lines

Step 14: Remove seats/carpet from inside the car

Step 15: replace Hyundai hand break cables with Proton ones

Step 16: re-install seats and carpet.

Step 17: put wheels on and remove jack, stands and chocks

Step 18: Test stop?

Looking good.
About time some one did a proper "walk through" for this mod, instead of the usual before an after pics.

been a bit busy of late and not had time to complete the disc conversion, but i am probably making some small mods to it anyhow...

But, with Ryan (kicker lc accents) help, i finally managed to install my shark racing short shifter. The difference to the feel of the gearbox is unbelievable. When i first shifted from first to second i though i had neutral, but i was already in second! I even have the stock gear knob installed (which is very tall in itself) and the shift from first to second is no more than 1.5 - 2 inches. Side to side is also shorter. The length of the stick is adjustable and i don't even have it on the shortest setting, but it was hitting the bottom of the car, i fixed this by spacing the bottom of the shifter using washers.

So yeah, if anyone is looking for a short shifter for their car, check shark racing

i want to lift my short shifter up and stiffen it up with metal bushes
i was thinking almost trying to lean it towards me - pack up the passenger side somewhat more then the drivers side

Don't suppose you took photos of the short shifter install did you?
Any reason you didn't go with a speedbox one?

If this one is better for the money then i might get one as well, have been thinking about it for a while and now i've got extra money i might as well.

Yeah spacing up one side (2 points) could be good, have you thought about doing 3 points?
That way the top gears aren't out of "reach" and its tilted towards you.
ie, 5 washers under the top left mounting point and 3 washers under the top right and bottom left mounting points of the shifter?
Or something like that.

You could go all nuts and have a tapered plate made up as well.